If you are a new rider and looking for first bike or you want to buy an old second hand bike, probably know exactly what type of motorcycle you want but if you’re new to riding, all the different styles of bikes may have your head spinning. There are some most essential things to attentions in the process of purchasing a used motorcycle. Because all used motorcycles are not equal so earlier you pay for a bike you should make sure the bike you are going to buy is the best in its category? What type of used motorcycle do I want? Where should I look? What should I check or test on a used motorcycle?
Here are numerous things to assistance you to keep your used motorcycle buying experience and help you to traverse yourself away from a depraved choice,
Here we are placed a few simple steps to purchase a used motorcycle, you can take steps before you pledge your money, for a used bike.
Step 1 To Buy Second Hand Motorcycle
The first thing that decides that is what type of riding habitually will be good for you.
- Sports bike
- Commuting bike
- A touring motorbike
- Dual purpose combination bike
- Cruise bike
- Off road bike
This is the most important and standard you need to study before to get one. Please be honest with yourself on to take decision. Because a heavy super bike might make your heart bounce a beat, but there is a very good chance that you will hate it on the commute, and that your pillion will be uncomfortable on it. Track-days on a cruiser may also be disappointing.
Step 2 to Buy Used Bike
At some point your taste will drift toward a particular style and model, look at as many similar models as you can. Giving yourself options is a good way to keep yourself from jumping at the first bike you see.
Once you have a particular bike in mind, do some quick internet research. Having some concept of market value as well as common maintenance issues for the model.
Step 3 to buy a Used Motorcycle
You should Buy a bike from a reputable dealership if possible. Because Private sales may be at lower price, but you will not have any response if the bike breaks down or upsets. Most dealerships offer some type of warranty, or at the very least, will work with you should anything go wrong in the first few months of buying. If you must buy from a private party, insist that you be able to take the bike to a reputable dealership to be assessed and inspected. Because a few dollars spent now could save you piles of cash and worry in the future.
Step 4 with 10 useful Tips
If you are new to buy a bike you should take with you a friend who can check the bike out for yourself. He or you can take some simple hand tools with you, including a flashlight and, if possible, a millimeter.
- Check the condition of the drive chain and sprocket. The chain should have around ¾” of up and down play. Try to wiggle the chain side to side on the sprocket. There shouldn’t be much movement on a good set. Have someone sit down on the motorcycle and check to make sure the chain is somewhat snug, with very little movement up and down.
- Tires are most essentials thing The tires should have good tread all the way across the surface with no signs of rough wear or damage.
- You should sit on the bike and check the condition of the brake and clutch levers, bar-end weights, straightness of the bars and instrument cluster. These could be signs of an accident or drop. Others could be scratched engine cases, foot pegs or exhaust pipes. Hold the handbrake and bounce the front suspension. It would feel even and firm. Get off the bike and check the fork tubes for signs of rust, pitting and oil. These are signs of worn fork seals, or possible future expensive problems.
- Though checking the forks, run a fingernail across the brake rotors, feeling for uneven wear or grooving. Look into the brake caliper to see how much of the pads are left. If the bike has spokes, check the overall condition of the individual spokes. For all types, look for dents or damage to the rim.
- Place position the bike on its center stand if so equipped; turn the bars side to side. Feel for any ‘notch-ness’ or roughness in the steering head.
- You should check the visible frame; remove the seat to see beneath it also. There should be no dents, kinks or visible damage to the frame. If there is, walk away.
- Whereas the seat is off and you can access the battery, clip the multi-meter across the battery terminals and check the voltage. It should read no less than 12 volts. Start the engine. The meter should read no more than 14 volts or so while running. If it does, that may be a sign of a ‘dodgy’ voltage regulator and it may overcharge a battery and cause it to fail. Check the lights and indicators at this stage also and check the battery terminals and overall appearance of the battery.
- You must Open the fuel tank and check for obvious signs of rust or corrosion using your flashlight.
- Check the frame for fatigue at the weld points. Inspect the overall condition of the engine block, plugs, and radiator. Check for leaks around the oil filter and oil pan bolt.
- Take a check at the brake fluid level. This is typically on top of handlebars, in an enclosure with a clear window. With the engine running, pull hard on the front brakes level and release while watching the fluid level. It should fall and rise. It should rise quickly once the brake is released.
Take a test drive to inspect with 10 tips
Don’t be surprised if the owner doesn’t allow you to take the bike for a ride. If he won’t, ask to ride on the back, or at least have him ride it up and down the street so you can hear it and see how it moves. Cash in hand tends to greatly increase your chances of a ride. If he allows the test ride, give the bike one last looks over to make sure it is safe to ride
- If possible Pick a nice day with dry roads and good visibility. Bring your bike license and proper gear if you have it. Most dealers will have loaner gear available for you to use. If at a dealer, be prepared to sign an insurance relinquishment; if privately, be ready to leave your license with the seller as security.
- Ask to owner for the starting procedure, even if you’re a seasoned rider. The starter should turn the engine over easily. A cold carbureted bike may take a try or two but should still start quickly. If you have to grind away at it to get it to start, this could be a carburetor issue or it could be an electrical issue. If the bike has a kick starter, you could give that a try also. It should start within a kick or two.
- Choice a familiar route with you that has light traffic and good road conditions if possible. Start slowly and get used to the way the bike feels and responds.
- Check the brakes. They should not ‘pulse’. That is a sign of warped disks. They should engage smoothly and evenly and not grab violently or feel malleable.
- Check by accelerate through the gears. You have your riding gear in order. On the ride, you will be listening for how the engine sounds as it revs. You will want to shift through as many of the gears as possible to ensure the clutch is functioning properly, including downshifting. The transmission should feel firm and not slip out of gear under acceleration or feel ‘clunky’.
- Although on a straight, clean patch of road, weave left and right slightly to see how the bike responds. It should feel stable and easy to correct.
- Attend to listen for any unusual engine noises, suspension creaking or rattling and any undue vibrations. Ask questions about anything you have misgivings about.
- You will also want to see how well the bike shifts in and out of neutral. Carefully test the brakes. Squeezing the brakes lightly will help you feel for warps or bumps in the rotors.
- The throttle should roll on and off easily, and the bike should respond smoothly with even power.
- Though you’re on the bike, make sure it fits you properly. Equally important is whether or not you like the bike. If you don’t, then don’t buy it.
Step 5 To Examine The Bike
Check and examine the bike again after the test ride, looking for any leaks or drips. Check the oil, through either the sight glass or; when the engine cools, the dipstick if so equipped. Most semi or full synthetic oils will darken after only a few miles. That is completely normal.
Ask a service history and for an owner’s manual and factory toolkit if available It is always a good thing to have, but for several reasons, they may not be available.
Step 7 Negotiation for Final Deal
Being prepared, knowing the market value, and having done a thorough inspection and test ride will give you some concept of the actual value of the motorcycle. From there you can start a fair and reasonable negotiation. Stand being a realistic when negotiating on the final price of the bike.
For a private seller, this may be his baby and insulting him now will ensure that you will not get a fair price. If at a dealership, realize that the salesperson may have targets to meet and a boss looking over his shoulder. Do some research online; use the retail pricing guides if available, or read the bike classifieds to get a fair market value of the bike. Then, set your buy price consequently.
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